Origins

The purpose of this screenplay was to explore the personal and technical aspects of the 'Mystery of Mallory and Irvine'; it was written in a few weeks in 2005 by Bill Ryan and myself, and there was much interest from several well-known actors. With our unique combination of historical and mountaineering knowledge, we wanted to get behind the iconic mystique of the 'legendary figures' of George Leigh Mallory And Andrew Irvine. What is presented in this entertaining format is as close as we can get to the cameraderie of the expedition, the depth of Mallory and Irvine, and what we believe happened on 8 June 1924.

This was published 1 May 2011, on the 12th anniversary of the discovery of the body of George Leigh Mallory, as an expedition searches for the remains of Andrew Irvine on Everest.

01 May 2011

Setting Off

EXT.  GOVERNMENT HOUSE - LATE THE NEXT MORNING
SANDY stands at the door of the house in a proper suit, his hair brilliantined.  The door opens and the MAJOR DOMO, dressed in scarlet as the staff in Calcutta, bows to him.
MAJOR DOMO
Good morning, sir.
SANDY
Mr. Irvine, to see Lady Lytton.
MAJOR DOMO
Very good, sir.  Please come in, sir.
He opens the door wider and beckons SANDY in to the hall of the house.  SANDY looks about at the paintings and the ceiling fan, inspecting the mechanism - it is automatic - before LADY LYTTON arrives. 
She comes down the hall from the back of the house, a graceful chic woman in a gauzy frock.
LADY LYTTON
Sandy, darling, how are you!  How lovely to see you.  Tony wrote you were coming, but we didn't expect you for another week.  How are you, dear boy?
SANDY
Tolerably, ma'am.  It's surprisingly hot.
SANDY grins.
SANDY
I came expecting snow and subzero temperatures!
LADY LYTTON holds out her hands.
LADY LYTTON
You'll find the most extreme temperatures here.  Come along and have some tea; you must be perishing.  And tell us about your journey, and how you left Tony.
They walk down the hall to the back of the house to a large family parlour where are the Lyttons' other children: HENRY, DAVINA, and HERMIONE, who are teenagers.  HENRY is especially interested in SANDY's impressions of the expedition members.  HENRY is sitting near SANDY on the sofa.
HENRY
Tell us about the team!  All we get in the papers make them sound a lot of cardboard stalwarts.
SANDY
They are that.  Stalwart I mean, but not cardboard or stuffy.  We had ever such a good time on the ship and down in Calcutta.  The Army men, the General and Col. Norton, are very fond of pranks, especially on the recruits.  They've been very welcoming and Col. Norton especially is very kind.
HERMIONE looks at her mother then SANDY.
HERMIONE
When do you think we could meet them?
LADY LYTTON
(smiling)
Dinner tonight.
DAVINA
(to SANDY)
She's never got over our trip to Kanchenjunga when we arrived.
HENRY
We've ALL been reading all the news as it comes over, including Davina!
HENRY looks at her pointedly.
SANDY
(to HERMIONE)
I wouldn't have got over Kanchenjunga either.  It was a stupendous sight on our arrival.
HERMIONE
(overjoyed)
They're coming to dinner?
LADY LYTTON
(smiling)
Yes dear.
HERMIONE
Bully!
HENRY
(to SANDY)
Who's your favourite on the team?
SANDY
(smiling)
Definitely General Bruce! He keeps us in stitches.
DAVINA
That's an odd thing to say of a General!
SANDY
Wait till you see him tonight.
HENRY leans forward earnestly
HENRY
Whom do you ADMIRE most?
SANDY
Mallory.
HENRY
I knew it! I have all the Players cards, and he's my favourite.
SANDY
HAVE you? Do you know I used to collect those as well? I have a whole box of them in my workshop at home.  We should look at yours and see if I have any that you don't.  I can send them to you.
HENRY
REALLY?
SANDY
Yes.
HERMIONE munches a biscuit.
HERMIONE
Why is Mr. Mallory the one you most admire?
HENRY
Don't be a goose, Minna!
SANDY
No, it's a good question.  I'll tell you why, Hermione: Because he is a BRILLIANT climber, and if anyone can get to the top of Everest he can.  He's very dedicated and determined.
DAVINA
The Hero of Everest.
She drinks her coffee with a look of scorn.
HENRY
It's true! Didn't he save all those men going down the cliffside by digging in an ice-axe? Didn't he go up and rescue stranded porters? He's bally great I say!
They all look at SANDY, who is smiling.
SANDY
Yes, he did all those things.  But he wouldn't tell you he did them.  He didn't in the expedition books, you know.
LADY LYTTON beams at the gentle lesson in courage and modesty, and watches the children admire SANDY also.
LADY LYTTON
Just as it should be.  It's much better to let others sing our praises than cant them ourselves.
(beat)
Sandy dear, tell us about your voyage and how you left Tony.  We haven't had a letter from Oxford since you sailed.
EXT.  TENNIS LAWN, GOVERNMENT HOUSE - LATER THAT DAY
SANDY, LADY LYTTON, HENRY, and HERMIONE play doubles tennis on the lawn while DAVINA watches from a chair under a large umbrella at centre.  SANDY and HENRY are paired together, and the game is obviously not in the least serious with everyone laughing over the mistakes.  In the distance, SHEBBEARE and GEOFFREY BRUCE stand on the veranda of the guest house watching.
INT.  GUEST HOUSE PARLOUR - SAME EVENING
Expedition members assemble in the parlour for the walk over to the Government House for dinner.  Everyone is in evening dress.  Servants move about the room in fresh evening silks, serving drinks.  NORTON stands by the mantel, fiddling with a cuff that has come unlinked, GEORGE stands next to him, leaning on the mantel smoking, talking to SOMERVELL.  In the nearby passage, SANDY and SHEBBEARE emerge from their rooms at the same time, nearly bumping into one another.
SHEBBEARE
Sorry, old man!
They walk down the hall and come to stand in the wide doorway of the parlour.  SHEBBEARE takes a drink from the SERVANT's tray.
SHEBBEARE
I say, you made quick work of getting chummy with our hosts today! Out playing tennis.  Well done!
SANDY
(colouring)
Not at all.  Tony Lytton is a friend of mine at Oxford.  I used to go up to their house at the weekends before they came out to India.
GEOFFREY comes up behind them.
GEOFFREY
Isn't Lytton, Lord Whatsit, isn't his son some kind of peer?
He takes a drink as they move into the parlour.
GEOFFREY
I heard something about him in Calcutta, in a despatch to his Lordship.
SANDY
(over his shoulder)
Yes.  Viscount Knebworth.  I expect you heard that Tony's been sent down.
GEOFFREY
YES! That's it.  I was trying to remember earlier.
SHEBBEARE
God's knees! What for?
SANDY
He got caught playing roulette.
He takes a brandy from the tray of the passing servant and drinks some.
SANDY
But I didn't tell his mother!
INT.  GOVERNMENT HOUSE RECEPTION ROOM - CONTINUOUS
The Expedition members and several local dignitaries are present as well as the Lytton children.  HERMIONE in rapt thrall, listens to NORTON talk to TWO BUSINESSMEN.  HENRY shadows SANDY like an adoring puppy, and DAVINA talks with SOMERVELL and GEORGE.  BRUCE, GEOFFREY BRUCE, NOEL, ODELL, HINGSTON, and BEETHAM are all in a group, surrounded by guests asking questions.  The dinner gong sounds.  LADY LYTTON appears at the head of the room, leading into the dining room.
LADY LYTTON
I'm sorry to interrupt, ladies and gentlemen, but if you could all find a partner we can go in and continue the evening.
The buzz of conversation subsides slowly.  LADY LYTTON scans the room, and spots SANDY talking to HAZARD.  She tells her servant to go and fetch him.
LADY LYTTON
There you are, Sandy dear.  Be a gem won't you, and see an old married woman to her chair.
She takes his arm, and they lead into dinner.  BRUCE roars with laughter.  NOEL looks startled.  ODELL is amused, and GEOFFREY smirks.  As they pass into dinner HINGSTON murmurs to BEETHAM.
HINGSTON
So that's the secret of success, eh? Be a pretty, strapping fellow! And I wasted all these years in the ARMY.
BEETHAM
(laughing)
You're in the wrong career entirely, Major!
EXT.  LAWN, GOVERNMENT HOUSE - NEXT MORNING
There are several hundred men, Nepalis and Sherpa, in groups and queues all over the lawn.  HINGSTON heads one queue, NORTON another, SOMERVELL another, BRUCE and GEOFFREY BRUCE another.  BRUCE's queue is by far the longest and many men come straight up to him with grins and salutes, to be clapped on the back with a hearty welcome.  BRUCE chats up those who approach him, sizing them up as if they were horses.  GEOFFREY  takes down their names and ages on his clipboard.  A shrewd-eyed man steps up next in the queue before the General, and BRUCE practically dances with him.
BRUCE
Gyaltsen! You scruffy old knave! HOW ARE YOU!
He laughs and greets him Gurkhali.
BRUCE
Coming along with us, are you!
GYALTSEN bows a little nervously.
GYALTSEN
Yes, General, if you will have me.
BRUCE
Have you? Have you? Why would we not have you?  You've been with us all the way.  Of course, man!
He pounds GYALTSEN on the back.
BRUCE
How would you like your old job back as sirdar?
GYALTSEN is obsequiously grateful, his crusty suspicious slinking demeanour vanishing.
GYALTSEN
Really, General? Oh thank you General! Thank you!  Tashi Delek! Tashi Delek!
He makes many obeisances with tears in his eyes while BRUCE beams paternally.
BRUCE
YES, old fellow.  Go on and talk to Norton sahib and he'll set you up with your men.
GEOFFREY frowns in astonishment at this change in the man.  GYALTSEN goes. 
BRUCE
Now, Geoffrey, you may be wondering why I took on that conniving bastard again, and made him sirdar besides.
GEOFFREY
I certainly am, sir!
BRUCE
Let me tell you, my boy: I had a little chat with him before we parted last time, to do with what I know about his poisoning of a lama in the Kosi Valley.  Nothing too stern, you know, just what I'd heard from some of the porters.  I think we shall have no trouble from him this year. 
EXT.  LAWN, GOVERNMENT HOUSE - LATER.
A tall thin pockmarked man in his middle thirties steps up.  He twists his watch cap in his hands.  BRUCE spies him and stops, tender and serious.  GEOFFREY recognises the man and catches his breath.
BRUCE
Oh Angtarkay... You brave old blighter.
He embraces ANGTARKAY.
BRUCE
It's good, JOLLY GOOD to see you here.
He shakes ANGTARKAY'S hand vigorously.
BRUCE
By God! You've come back to us, even after being pulled out of the avalanche.
He nods.
BRUCE
Welcome, my brave old friend.  Welcome.
He shakes his hand again, repeating his words in Sherpani.  ANGTARKAY is in tears.
ANGTARKAY
Thank you, General sahib.  I had to come.  I come for you, General sahib.  Because you are good to us.
BRUCE
(earnestly)
I know, old man.  Thank you.
GEOFFREY looks away with emotion threatening to spill over into tears.
EXT.  6TH MILE STONE, OUTSIDE DARJEELING - MORNING, 26 MARCH
The entire Expedition is assembled: Team, porters, transport officers and their subalterns.  There is great busyness as the stores are loaded onto yaks and mules from buses that have taken the men from the city.  There are ponies for the expedition team to ride, stretching in a line, roped together. 
The OSTLER is barking orders in Nepali to his men.  NOEL and his men are taking pictures of the scene with the cinecamera and still cameras: the expedition members and climbing porters are having their picture taken.  SANDY and GEORGE are together, as they have been in all photos since the California.  When the still pictures are done, GEORGE turns to SANDY grinning.  He is wearing khakis and a pith helmet.
GEORGE
Now we really are on our way to Everest! Will you ride with me?
SANDY
(beaming)
I will!
GEORGE laughs.
GEORGE
I can't say much for the mounts! They'd never win the Derby, but it beats walking.
SANDY
(perplexed)
Eh?
GEORGE laughs again.
GEORGE
You'll see!
BRUCE and NORTON walk together to their ponies.  BRUCE climbs up on his by aid of a portable mounting step, while NORTON
simply slings his leg over - both feet are on the ground on either side of the animal.  BRUCE roars laughing.
BRUCE
Too bad for you, Teddy!
NORTON smiles sardonically.  The whole company starts off, BRUCE and NORTON at the head.  GEORGE and SANDY are in the middle of the cortege which, as it begins to move, stretches out some two miles along the narrow mountain track, which gradually widens.  In the distance is Kanchenjunga, and before them the great forests of Sikkim.  Everything is green and lush.
EXT.  EN ROUTE THROUGH SIKKIM - DAY
NORTON and GEOFFREY BRUCE are riding together. 
NORTON
I can't say much for this brute, Geoffrey.  Are you sure it isn't a mule?
He smiles.
GEOFFREY
(Laughing)
Well, Sir, you'd have to ask MACDONALD about that!
(beat)
(seriously)
Do you want me to ask him to find you a new one when we get to Kalimpong?
NORTON
If I can wait that long, Mintri and Company are fairly reliable, though the General will have to speechify to a few hundred more Boy Scouts to pay for it - they're fairly expensive.  Still, it will be something to needle old Hinks with, eh? Cost-cutting at the expense of our backsides.
(laughs)
I say, see if you can't get Macdonald to put the word out when we reach Yatung; I may have need of a new beast by then.  Or maybe a new pair of boots!
(laughs again)
GEOFFREY
(smiling)
I'll get on it.  I'm supposed to confab with him before tiffin tonight about the despatch runners.
NORTON
Good man, Geoff! My bottom thanks you.
EXT.  CAMP, AFTER TIFFIN - SAME DAY, DUSK
Members of the expedition are all sitting about two long tables in a pavilion which serves as the MESS.  Beyond the tent, there are dense forests of oak trees offset by rich undergrowth of moss and lichen and vast rolling meadows covered with a riot of wild flowers.  BRUCE is seated to the left of the head, NORTON is standing at the head. 
Various degrees of attention are being paid: several men are smoking, GEORGE is reading a book, NOEL is fiddling with a camera, HINGSTON and SOMERVELL are having a private medical confab.  HAZARD and SANDY are at the end of the last table, talking with the COOK and porters about breakfast.  Only ODELL, BEETHAM and GEOFFREY appear to be paying any real attention.
NORTON
Both Hingston and Somervell wanted me to warn you all once again especially that while we are travelling through Sikkim NO ONE shall drink any water from rivers or streams during the day.  All water must be boiled before drinking.
The men grumble about this.
NORTON
(holding up a hand)
I know it's inconvenient, but it will spare trouble later on, eh, Mallory?
GEORGE looks up from his book, puzzled.
GEORGE
Sorry, Norton, I missed that!
Laughter from the others.
NORTON
(smiling)
I was just saying we don't want a repeat of last time, so not to drink the water in Sikkim.
GEORGE
I'll say!
He grins at SOMERVELL. 
GEORGE
For a mere common dysentery some people wanted to perform bush surgery on the lead climber.  It would have made a terrific story in lectures, but I can't speak of the lack of chloroform!
SOMERVELL
(smiling)
You did have all the signs of acute appendicitis.  But the prospect of the knife cleared things right up!
There is more laughter.
NORTON
So no water that has not been boiled, eh?
There are general, half-hearted murmurs of assent.
NORTON
Now, to the protocols with the Dzongpens.
There are groans.
NORTON
I'm sorry, gentlemen, but we must be clear on this point.  Whenever we must deal with them, we must wear dress coats, not our old climbing togs.  These men are the highest officials in their districts or towns, even if they are sneaking, larcenous weasels, and as such we must respect them.
((beat))
DO NOT give them scarves, even if you have six and want to get rid of your store...
Rueful laughter. 
NORTON
... as they are not appreciated.  Wrist watches, electric torches, and any camp gear, are very much appreciated, as are cigarettes, so don't be shy in flinging them about.  Karma Paul will give you the finer points of protocol on the actual presentation of gifts, should you be required to give them. 
NORTON
(beat)
But in general let me say that it should be remembered that the Expedition are guests in a friendly country and a troublesome Dzongpen cannot be treated quite as cavalierly as, say, an obstructive Tehsildar in India.  Always think of possible subsequent expeditions and leave a good impression.
SOMERVELL looks up from his conversation with HINGSTON.
SOMERVELL
Norton?
NORTON
Yes?
SOMERVELL
(addressing the group)
If I may remind the company, we shall not be passing through leafy dells the whole way to Base Camp and before we arrive on the Phari Plain I should like to remind those fair among us...
Laughter at this.  SOMERVELL is already brown as a chestnut.
SOMERVELL
... that to avoid sunburn, zinc oxide before and lanolin after exposure the sun are found to give the best results as a preventative.
Groans and grumbling. 
SOMERVELL
It works much better than white paraffin.  Norton would not have damaged his fine profile if he had adhered to this regimen.
Sympathetic laughter, as NORTON turns his head.  His aristocratic nose has a profound dent.
SOMERVELL
Beards are desirable for the same purpose.
More laughter as SOMERVELL, HAZARD and GEOFFREY BRUCE already sport full black beards.
SOMERVELL
And that, gentlemen, is the end of the sartorial disquisition for this evening.
Smiling at GEORGE, who has put down his book, SOMERVELL picks it up and examines the title.
NORTON
Thank you, Somervell.  Now, if there are no other concerns, gentlemen, we may adjourn to our brandy and cigars.

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