Origins

The purpose of this screenplay was to explore the personal and technical aspects of the 'Mystery of Mallory and Irvine'; it was written in a few weeks in 2005 by Bill Ryan and myself, and there was much interest from several well-known actors. With our unique combination of historical and mountaineering knowledge, we wanted to get behind the iconic mystique of the 'legendary figures' of George Leigh Mallory And Andrew Irvine. What is presented in this entertaining format is as close as we can get to the cameraderie of the expedition, the depth of Mallory and Irvine, and what we believe happened on 8 June 1924.

This was published 1 May 2011, on the 12th anniversary of the discovery of the body of George Leigh Mallory, as an expedition searches for the remains of Andrew Irvine on Everest.

01 May 2011

Last Climb

EXT.  CAMP V TO CAMP VI, 3 JUNE - MORNING
NORTON, SOMERVELL, and three PORTERS climb to CAMP VI, arriving at 1.30 PM.  The PORTERS descend.
INT.  TENT, CAMP VI, 26,800 FT. - EVENING
The tent is strewn with clothes and food stores and a couple of oxygen cylinders with frames.  NORTON and SOMERVELL use the oxygen to be able to get some rest.
INT.  TENT CAMP VI, 4 JUNE - MORNING
NORTON and SOMERVELL wake early.  The sun is not quite up.
NORTON
Damn.
SOMERVELL
(dully)
What's the matter?
NORTON
The thermos has leaked.
He pulls the thermos out from his sleeping bag, to reveal a loose-fitting cap, and pours half a cupful of water into a tin mug.
SOMERVELL
How is it?
NORTON
Tepid.  Here...
He hands over the mug to SOMERVELL.
NORTON
You need it.
He struggles out of his bag.
NORTON
(resignedly)
I'll go melt some more snow.
EXT.  CAMP VI TO THE NORTH-EAST RIDGE - LATER
NORTON and SOMERVELL are ready to start off.  NORTON looks at his watch.  It is 6.45 AM, later than they wanted to start.  The day is clear and warm and perfect, windless, and remains so all day.
They climb up the North Ridge, making a slow, careful way.  About 500 feet below the crest of the Ridge they stop to consider the way.  SOMERVELL is beset by a violent fit of coughing.  NORTON scans the Ridge above and the Yellow and Grey Bands to their right.
NORTON
Do you feel fit enough to climb those rock steps? I can see at least three from here.  They don't look bad, but they're fairly exposed.
SOMERVELL scans the Ridge above them.
SOMERVELL
(dubiously)
I could, but I'd be doubtful of downclimbing them.
NORTON looks out over the North Face.
NORTON
Well then.  We could traverse over.  There's a chimney I see that leads up to the summit.  That would make it one climb rather than several.
(beat)
What do you think?
SOMERVELL
That's more appealing, if not a terrific challenge for you.
NORTON
(smiling)
Everything is a terrific challenge just now.  I'd be happy with less.
(beat)
Let's do it.
SOMERVELL nods, coughing, and NORTON starts off ahead of him, picking his way to a gully leading to the top of the Yellow Band.
EXT.  YELLOW BAND - NOON
NORTON is twenty yards ahead of SOMERVELL, breathing hard and long between steps.  He is not wearing goggles on the dark rock, and passes his hand across his eyes, squinting, every few minutes.
SOMERVELL stops, overtaken by a violent fit of coughing, worse than any yet, which nearly topples him down the North Face.  He sits down.  When it is over and he has recovered he shouts across to NORTON repeatedly.  NORTON stops and sits, waiting as SOMERVELL laboriously makes his way towards him.  They are very close to the Couloir, and the summit is a 1000-foot climb above.
SOMERVELL
I don't think I can go on.
SOMERVELL
(beat)
I can wait here while you have a dash.
NORTON
Are you sure?
SOMERVELL
Yes.  This throat has taken it out of me.  I nearly fell back there.
There is a long moment of silence.
NORTON
(shivering)
All right, old son.
(beat)
All right.
Wearily, he gets up and starts off.
EXT.  NORTH FACE - AN HOUR LATER
View from afar.  NORTON traverses the last few feet to the Couloir.  The base of it is clogged with snow.  He makes several attempts to begin the climb, sinking knee-deep then waist-deep in the snow.
View close up.  NORTON scans the rock above him, the North Face, and the sky.  He shakes his head in frustration, then resignation.
Looking up at the Couloir route and the summit once more, he turns away, and begins traversing back over the ground he has just crossed.
EXT.  BELOW CAMP V - NIGHT
NORTON is far below SOMERVELL, finding his way carefully in the dark with an electric torch.  SOMERVELL stops with another bout of coughing.  This one puts him on the ground.  He is choking, able to breathe neither in nor out.  His face turns red, and then purple.  Gaping, eyes wide, he tries repeatedly to dislodge whatever is stuck in his throat, but cannot.  At last, he lies down on the sloping ground and gives a tremendous, rib-cracking push inward on his chest with both hands.  Coughing, gasping, he rolls over and coughs up the obstruction and a lot of blood.  He yells in pain.  Breathing free, he weakly struggles up to a half-sitting position and examines the coughed up matter: it is the frostbitten lining of his throat.
SOMERVELL slowly rises wearily and stumbles down the mountain towards CAMP IV.  Eventually he catches NORTON up.
NORTON
There you are.  Are you all right to glissade? We can make it to the Col in half an hour that way.
SOMERVELL
No.
NORTON
All right.
He switches his torch back on and they go down together, climbing slowly and carefully.
EXT.  CAMP IV NORTH COL - LATER THAT NIGHT
GEORGE and ODELL meet NORTON and SOMERVELL about 100 feet above the camp, with oxygen cylinders.  When they are in sight, GEORGE shouts to them.
GEORGE
We have OXYGEN!
NORTON
(shouting)
WE DON'T WANT THE DAMNED OXYGEN! WE WANT DRINK!
He shouts this several times, like a mantra, before his voice gives out.
INT.  TENT, CAMP IV - LATER
NORTON sits on a camp stool, while NOEL, ODELL, and GEORGE examine his eyes and feed him soup and tea.  He has begun to go snow-blind and is in great pain.  SOMERVELL is lying in a sleeping bag, propped up.  SANDY is feeding him soup.
INT.  MESS TENT, 5 JUNE - MORNING
Breakfast is breaking up.  GEORGE and SOMERVELL are at the table, GEORGE listening to SOMERVELL's descriptions of the route.
SOMERVELL
...I got some fairly good pictures in the Band, when I wasn't coughing.   Noel can develop them today if you like.  You'll see that the ground is much steeper than it appears.
GEORGE
Thank you, Howard, I'd appreciate that.
(beat)
Damn!
He runs a hand through his hair.
GEORGE
I forgot my camera at II! I say, can you lend me yours?
SOMERVELL
(smiling)
Of course.  I've got more film, but if you think you might run out you can get some from Noel.
GEORGE
I might take one or two pictures, I think.  I'd be keen to see yours before we start off.
SOMERVELL
I'll take the finished rolls to Noel right now.  I need to look in on Teddy anyway.
He rises.
GEORGE
He was pretty bad last night, despite the laudanum.
SOMERVELL
I know how he feels.
(beat)
Come round in an hour and we'll see what Noel has cooked up. 
EXT.  CAMP VII, 27,000 FEET, 8 JUNE - 2 A.M
The camera swoops in from the shadowy vastness of the North Face to pick out a tiny speck, visible in the moonlight and perched on a small rocky platform high on the North Ridge at 27,000 ft.  It is a small bivouac tent.  This is Camp VII.
INT.  SMALL BIVOUAC TENT - CONTINUOUS
It is dark.  GEORGE AND SANDY are cocooned in their sleeping bags.  They are wrapped and muffled in all the clothing they have.  Each is awake, but each has been careful not to disturb the other.  They have been able to snatch one or two hours of restless half-sleep.
An alarm goes off.  It is not loud, but quite audible.  GEORGE stirs, and fiddles with his watch.  The alarm ceases.
GEORGE
Sandy, are you awake?
SANDY
Of course.
SANDY
(beat)
How are you this fine morning?
GEORGE
(shivering)
Never felt better.
(beat)
This reminds me of my wedding day.  I couldn't sleep then, either.
(beat)
The finest day of my life.  But this day may be finer.
SANDY
I couldn't sleep before the boat race either.  It didn't stop us winning.
(beat)
You woke up at two in the morning on your wedding day?
GEORGE
One day you'll be married, and then you'll understand.
SANDY laughs.
Both men stir with some difficulty.  It is clearly bitterly cold.  With slow efficiency of movement, as if rehearsed, they prepare themselves for leaving the tent.  They do not need to dress, for they have nothing else to put on.  SANDY lights the small stove to melt some snow.  GEORGE retrieves his boots from deep inside his sleeping bag and holds them one by one, inverted, over the stove.  A muddy drip falls into the melting snow in the pan.
GEORGE moves to pick out the offending dirt.  SANDY motions to stop him.
SANDY
It'll add some flavour.  I could do with a change.
GEORGE
We could boil them both, if you like.  That might add wings to our heels.
EXT.  BIVOUAC TENT - TWO HOURS LATER
The sky is slightly lighter, and the moon is lower in the sky.  GEORGE emerges from the tent, followed by SANDY.  Each man moves slowly and deliberately.  SANDY stands up straight and looks at his watch from beneath his gloves.
SANDY
Ten past four.  I say.  Not bad at all.
GEORGE
The best Alpine days I've had have always started like this.  Not a breath of wind.  I can hardly believe it.  It won't stay like this.
(beat)
But the gods may have given us a reprieve to get us moving along.
SANDY reaches down to pick up a pack frame with three bottles of oxygen.  He holds it for GEORGE to put on his back.  Then he picks up his own, hands it to GEORGE, who holds it for him.  Neither speaks.  GEORGE extends his gloved hand to SANDY, who shakes it firmly.
GEORGE
Here we go.
SANDY
Here we go.
SANDY adjusts something on GEORGE's oxygen frame.
SANDY
There.  Half flow.  How does that feel?
GEORGE takes a few deep breaths from his mask.
GEORGE
Perfectly fine.
SANDY
We'll have until sundown.
GEORGE
We'll be back in time for tea.
MONTAGE
1) The two men set off, moving slowly but without pause up the ridge, gradually picking their way.  GEORGE leads.  SANDY places his feet deliberately and precisely where GEORGE does.
2) The camera swoops in again over the North Face.  The sky is lightening as dawn approaches.  Two tiny dots move gradually upwards.  The camera zooms in to reveal the two men making slow and steady progress.
3) The two men emerge on the North-East Ridge, silhouetted against the brightening sky where the sun will rise.  They stop and look down the giant Kangshung Face.  This is their first sight of this immense precipice. 
GEORGE points downwards.  They remove their masks to exchange some brief words, then replace them again.  They start to move on up the ridge towards the summit of the mountain, a mile to the right.
4) The sun rises.  The two men, picking their way methodically along the ridge, stop and admire the sunrise.  It is a clear and fine morning.
5) They approach the First Step, a significant obstacle on the ridge.  They stop.
6) One man puts down his ice axe, takes off his frame, fiddles with the fixings, unfastens one bottle, and tucks it into a cleft between two rocks.  They continue.  One man is carrying two bottles while the other has three. 
7) INSERT: The ice axe, lying forgotten on an easy-angled slab of rock.
8) GEORGE climbs the First Step with slow, precise, economical movements.  He encounters no difficulty.  He trails a loose rope.  SANDY follows and arrives at the top of the step.  GEORGE has the rope belayed over his shoulder.
EXT.  TOP OF THE FIRST STEP - MORNING
GEORGE takes off his mask.
GEORGE
Well done! Sterling work.  Are you all right?
SANDY is breathless.  He nods.  He does not take off his mask, but his goggles are lifted to his forehead.  He appears happy and relieved.
GEORGE
Good show.  I must change my bottle now.  It expired down there but I wanted to press on.
He moves to take off his frame, but SANDY turns him round and deftly unfastens the empty bottle, connecting a new one.  He takes the empty bottle, looks around, and then moves to cast it down the North Face.  GEORGE motions to stop him.  He points down the Kangshung Face.
GEORGE
No, the other side.  They'll think one of us has fallen.
SANDY nods and casts the bottle down the Kangshung Face.  It slides and cartwheels down the two mile high slope to the glacier below.  It is a long fifteen seconds before it disappears from view.
SANDY removes his mask.
SANDY
Ye Gods.
GEORGE
Where's your axe?
SANDY is still looking down the giant face.
SANDY
Eh?
GEORGE
Your axe.  Where is it?
SANDY
I have it here.
He looks around, as does GEORGE.
SANDY
(alarmed)
Is it in my frame?
GEORGE peers at his frame.
GEORGE
No.
(beat)
Have you forgotten it?
SANDY
I had it when we were climbing the Ridge.  And I used it to point down the East Face.  You remember?
GEORGE
I do.
Both men are silent for a moment.
SANDY
George, I think I left it when I changed my bottle.
(beat, alarmed)
What shall I do?
GEORGE pauses.
GEORGE
Nothing.  It's an encumbrance here.  And up above, we're walking up the snow.
(beat)
Relax, my boy.  There's no problem.
SANDY is shaking his head as if in self-reproach.  GEORGE pats him on the back.
GEORGE
Come on, old boy.  Noel will be watching for us.  And we're about...
He looks at his watch, then looks again, and briefly down at the step.
GEORGE
Damn.  I've broken it.  The hand's come off.  Can't think how I did that.  Well.
He takes off the watch and puts it in his pocket.
GEORGE
No matter.  You've got one.  Come on, then.  We can't keep Noel waiting.
Both men look down to a sea of cloud through which none of the camps can be seen.
EXT.  BETWEEN THE FIRST AND SECOND STEPS - MORNING
The two men pick their way painstakingly along the blocky and irregular ridge.  It is a continuous scramble among large rocks, sloping ledges and minor steps, with occasional drops which must be downclimbed with care.
SANDY
I can't believe I left my axe.  I just can't believe it.  It must be true what they say about a man losing his mind at high altitude where there is no oxygen.  I feel I can hardly think.  But I've endangered our party now that I have no axe.  How could I, on this most important day? How could I let George down like this?
EXT.  FURTHER ALONG THE RIDGE - A SHORT WHILE LATER
SANDY
(in the rhythm of his footsteps, sounding as if he is in a semi-trance)
Mustn't let the team down.  Mustn't let the team down.  MUSTN'T let the team down.  Got to get there.  Got to get there.  GOT to get there.  Keep going.  Keep going.  Keep going.
FADE TO:
EXT.  HENLEY-ON-THAMES, THE OXFORD V. CAMBRIDGE BOAT RACE, 1923 - FLASHBACK
The POV is that of SANDY, looking at the back of the oarsman in front of him.  The COX is shouting time at the top of his voice.
COX
STROKE! STROKE! STROKE! STROKE!
SANDY
(as if under his breath)
Keep going.  Keep going.  Keep going.  Another stroke.  Another stroke.  Another stroke.  Got to finish.  Got to finish.  Got to finish.  KEEP GOING.  KEEP GOING.  KEEP GOING.
FADE TO:
EXT.  THE NORTH-EAST RIDGE, APPROACHING THE SECOND STEP - LATER
The 80 ft high Second Step looms before the pair, resembling the prow of a ship.  The rocks appear sheer and the drop on either side is extreme.  On the left side is steep snow and ice above a dizzying drop.  On the right is a steep and narrow ledge traverse which appears to skirt the main prow towards slightly easier ground.
GEORGE takes off his mask and points to the ledge.
GEORGE
That's the way.
GEORGE heads to the traverse without any further ado.  SANDY stands there for a moment and gazes at the formidable obstacle before them.
GEORGE arrives at the beginning of the traverse.  He scans it quickly, then turns to SANDY sharply.  He lifts his goggles to his forehead.
His eyes are intense, but his voice is quiet.  His eyes never leave SANDY's as he speaks.
GEORGE
Nothing to worry about here.  It's an easy go right round this outcrop.  Then we're down on that ledge.  Just do EXACTLY as I do.  I will go slowly.  Follow my hand and footholds.  All right there.  And easy.  Just do EXACTLY as I do.  Understand?
SANDY
Yes.
GEORGE nods, pulls on his mask, leaves his goggles on his forehead, and starts off, slowly, delicately picking hand- and footholds.  SANDY lifts his own goggles to his forehead and starts across, placing hands and feet exactly where GEORGE does.  Behind and below them the vastness of the North Face is visible.  As they traverse, a small rock skitters down and down, but GEORGE moves nimbly and surely.  SANDY follows with deliberate precision.
EXT.  AT THE END OF THE TRAVERSE - A FEW MINUTES LATER
At the very top of the broken section is a steep crack with a fearsome appearance.
GEORGE arrives on the ledge and waits for SANDY to follow him.  SANDY traverses slowly and carefully, and joins GEORGE.  His eyes are wide and startled.  He takes his mask off to speak.
SANDY
(gasping for breath)
Ye Gods and little fishes!
GEORGE
Splendid, what? This is much easier than I expected.
SANDY
It is?
GEORGE
Up there.
GEORGE points to the broken rocks above.  There is a small snow terrace, above which is the steep crack.
GEORGE
That's the way now.  It looks easy to the crack.  Then we may climb that, or we may climb the crack on the right.  But either way, there's no problem here.
FADE TO:
EXT.  NESTHORN, ALPS 1909 - FLASHBACK
GEORGE, GEOFFREY YOUNG and DONALD ROBERTSON are near the summit of the mountain, faced with an almost identical pitch.  ROBERTSON and YOUNG discuss how best to climb the narrow crumbly exposed crack.  GEORGE scans the rock quickly.
GEORGE
Right.
He launches himself up the narrow crack in less than five minutes. 
At the top there is an overhang, which he smoothly surmounts in a single vaulting gymnastic move.  Standing up at the top, he looks out over the Oberland, then down at his companions, who gaze at him in astonishment.
YOUNG
(smiling at last)
Galahad, old thing, you've left us the rope! How are we to follow on, after that?
GEORGE
(beaming)
Throw it up, Geoffrey.  Come on up.  The view is fine.
DISSOLVE TO:
EXT.  SECOND STEP - CONTINUOUS
SANDY bites his lip and puts his mask back on.  GEORGE is already climbing the blocky broken rocks.  SANDY takes his mask off again.
SANDY
GEORGE! Shall I belay you?
GEORGE is already fifteen feet above him.
GEORGE
(over his shoulder)
If you wish! But I shan't fall here.
GEORGE is gaining height rapidly.
SANDY
(shouting)
WELL, PLEASE HOLD MINE!
SANDY puts his mask on again, checks the knot round his waist, and looks up, squinting against the brightness.  GEORGE reaches the little snow terrace and examines the steep rock above. 
There is a wide crack reaching vertically upwards for about 15 feet.  To the right, there is a flank of more broken, looser rock, with several other evident fissures; but it is still steep.  GEORGE steps to the right, and tentatively pulls himself a few feet up the steep wall.  A small rock comes loose and falls towards SANDY.
GEORGE
(shouting over his shoulder)
BELOW!!
SANDY nimbly steps to his left, and the rock, the size of his fist, explodes a couple of feet to his right.
GEORGE
SORRY!
George pulls himself up the steep, loose crack.  Balancing on small holds, he makes a couple of gymnastic moves.  He is now half way, balanced on a small ledge about a foot wide.  He pauses, as if in reflection.  Then he extends a foot high to the right, pulls on a small handhold, and reaches up with his left hand to reach the edge of the top of the step. 
He pauses again, as if for breath.  Then he moves his left foot to a small hold, reaches up with his other hand, and rolls over the top of the steep wall.  He is then lost from sight for a few moments.
GEORGE reappears, having taken off his mask.  He is blowing strongly, but looks triumphant.
GEORGE
IT'S ALL RIGHT! DID YOU SEE THE WAY? I HAVE A GOOD BELAY HERE.
GEORGE disappears again, then returns to sit on the edge of the step.  He has taken off his oxygen frame and has the rope over his right shoulder, held firmly against his body with his left arm.
GEORGE
UP YOU COME, OLD BOY!
The rope comes tight on SANDY and he starts to climb up the steep blocky steps to the snow terrace.  He goes slowly but surely, and reaches the snow after a couple of minutes.  He looks up apprehensively.
GEORGE
MARVELLOUS!
GEORGE looks down expectantly.  SANDY surveys the loose crack before him.  He picks out a few loose pebbles and throws them down the face, watching them fall till they vanish from sight.  He reaches up tentatively, as GEORGE pulls tight on the rope.
GEORGE
CLIMB AWAY!
SANDY attempts to emulate GEORGE but finds it hard.  He balances up awkwardly, and reaches for a hold which comes off in his hand.  He steps down with all his weight now on the tight rope and lands heavily, though still in balance, in the snow.  He looks up at GEORGE with considerable anxiety.
GEORGE
I'VE GOT YOU, OLD BOY!
GEORGE pulls hawser-tight on the rope as if to prove his point.  SANDY closes his eyes, breathes deeply, and steps forward again to the rock.  He reaches up tentatively.
GEORGE
YES! THERE'S THE HOLD YOU WANT.
SANDY slowly teeters up with his right foot on a small hold, with his whole body held in balance by a combination of his handhold and the tight rope.  His left foot struggles to find a hold, and eventually finds a small purchase.  SANDY remains there, spreadeagled, for a short while.  He looks up anxiously.
GEORGE
GOOD!
GEORGE grips the rope more tightly still and looks down.  SANDY is still stuck.
GEORGE
YOUR RIGHT HAND.  HIGH!
SANDY stretches his right hand as high as he can.  His left leg is shaking.  He inches his arm upwards and reaches a good hold.  As he grasps it, his left leg shoots off the rock and he is left hanging partly on the tight rope and partly on his right arm.
GEORGE
EXCELLENT!
SANDY is trying to regain a purchase with his left foot.  His strength is evident as he pulls himself up with his straight right arm, supported by the rope and a small purchase for his right foot.  His left hand is brushing the rock above, looking for a hold.  His left foot, now at waist level, finds the foot-wide ledge.  His left hand finds a small side-pull and with the aid of the rope he teeters on to the ledge, gasping for breath.  With his eyes closed, he looks as if he is praying.  Both legs are shaking.
GEORGE is now just a few feet above him.
GEORGE
Just a couple of moves to go, old boy.  Not far.
SANDY opens his eyes and looks up.  Their eyes meet.  SANDY looks as if he is pleading for help.  GEORGE meets his gaze steadily.
GEORGE
Not far.  Two moves and you're here.  Then we're a stone's throw from the top.  Wait till you see.
SANDY nods.  He reaches up with his left hand.  Then, abruptly, the ledge gives way beneath him.  He falls sharply on to the rope, which chafes briefly over the sharp edge.  GEORGE reacts with lightning speed and holds him fast.  The large block crashes on to the rocks below and bounces down the north face, generating a little avalanche of smaller stones.  SANDY, still with his oxygen mask, tries to speak.  GEORGE holds the rope with an iron grip.
GEORGE
SANDY! Find your handhold.  THERE.  Good.  Now the other.  GOOD.
SANDY is trying to regain his hold on the rock.  He now has two high handholds and is scrabbling with his feet.  He finds a small purchase and wobbles up.  Again, he looks in alarm.  GEORGE holds the rope tight.  SANDY reaches up again with a high right hand and grasps the edge of the step.  With an almighty effort, scrabbling with both legs, he heaves his upper body over the edge but can go no further.  He looks up at GEORGE, gasping through his oxygen mask.
GEORGE, his left arm firmly gripping the rope from over his right shoulder, extends a strong right arm and hoists him up over the edge.  Now safe, SANDY lies slumped on the flat rock as if unable to move, panting heavily and rapidly.
GEORGE
(with kindness)
Come on, old boy, you're making this look difficult.
It is a while before SANDY can speak.  Eventually he sits up and takes off his mask.  GEORGE is still holding the rope.  SANDY appears to have tears in his eyes.
SANDY
Thank you...
(beat)
I'm sorry...
GEORGE interrupts him.
GEORGE
Come on, old man.  We'll be at the top in a jiffy.  Look over there.
He points to the summit, which appears extraordinarily close.
GEORGE
Are you safe?
SANDY nods.  GEORGE unwinds the rope from his shoulder.  SANDY stands up unsteadily.
SANDY
What now?
GEORGE
To the top.

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