Origins

The purpose of this screenplay was to explore the personal and technical aspects of the 'Mystery of Mallory and Irvine'; it was written in a few weeks in 2005 by Bill Ryan and myself, and there was much interest from several well-known actors. With our unique combination of historical and mountaineering knowledge, we wanted to get behind the iconic mystique of the 'legendary figures' of George Leigh Mallory And Andrew Irvine. What is presented in this entertaining format is as close as we can get to the cameraderie of the expedition, the depth of Mallory and Irvine, and what we believe happened on 8 June 1924.

This was published 1 May 2011, on the 12th anniversary of the discovery of the body of George Leigh Mallory, as an expedition searches for the remains of Andrew Irvine on Everest.

01 May 2011

Everest

EXT.  EVEREST BASE CAMP, 29 APRIL - DAWN
The landscape at Base Camp is like the moon, barren and rock-strewn, but for the tents and gear of the expedition and the presence of Everest up the Rongbuk glacier 12 miles away. 
Behind the camp, away from the glacier route, is a stream; the reason for the choice of this place.  At a little distance, away from the rest, near the water, is NOEL's photographic tent.
NOEL walks whistling from his tent to GEORGE's.  It is very early.  The only people stirring in the camp are the personal servants of each man on the expedition, who huddle round the Primus stove in the mess tent or move to and fro bringing tea and tins of hot water to their charges.  NOEL is fresh-faced with the weather and alert.  He has obviously been up some while.  He flings up the flap of GEORGE's tent and bends his head inside.
INT.  GEORGE'S TENT - CONTINUOUS
GEORGE sits against a pile of gear at the head of his sleeping bag, resting on his feet, with his hands flat on his knees before him, meditating.  The candle lantern beside him is lit against the dimness.  There is a strongly peaceful atmosphere in the tent.
NOEL
WHAT HO, Mallory!
NOEL pauses in surprise.
NOEL
Oh, I say! Terribly sorry!
NOEL begins to back out.
GEORGE opens his eyes slowly, smiling a little, but his gaze is intense.  He does not move.
GEORGE
Don't go, John.  It's fine.  What did you want?
NOEL comes back in and folds his tall body to sit before GEORGE.
NOEL
This is a surprise.  For all your talk of karma, I had thought it something of a joke.  Didn't know you went in for this sort of thing.
GEORGE
(smiles)
I didn't used to do, until I came here.  But Tibet casts a spell on one.  I find it quite useful.
He unfolds himself and reaches over to fill his pipe.
GEORGE
(conspiratorially)
It's not something one wants spread about amongst the hearties!
NOEL
No.
(beat)
I do agree with you.
(beat)
You know, I came to feel the same when I was here the first time.
NOEL smiles.
NOEL
Did I tell you that I was disguised as a pilgrim for ten weeks? Those were long weeks! I swear I've not been quite the same since.  I learnt a very great deal from the wise men I encountered.
NOEL pauses.  GEORGE remains still and silent.
NOEL
How to still the mind.
Another long pause.
NOEL
It does impart a wonderful clarity.
GEORGE is smoking and reaches over to move a volume of Grey's poems away from the candle lantern.  There is another long pause.
Eventually GEORGE speaks.  NOEL looks deep in thought.  GEORGE regards him with an intense focus.
GEORGE
It does.  I get my best ideas for everything then, whether it's routefinding or for writing, or how to structure the school curriculum.  But more...
He spits out a piece of loose tobacco.
GEORGE
Pardon me.  But more, it gives me answers to questions I never knew I had.
NOEL looks at him quizzically.
NOEL
It does?
(beat)
Say more.
GEORGE nods slowly.
GEORGE
You said to me in London, John, that I should have to ask Chomolungma if it were my fate to be here.  I thought about that late into the night.  Even after I came here I was sceptical of the natives' idea of the personification of this mountain in a GODDESS, even a wrathful one.
(beat)
It seemed to me to be much more of a masculine character.
(beat)
But when I was here alone on our reconnaissance that first trip, I had such a sense of this place as a...
GEORGE gropes for the word.
GEORGE
... Personification...
(beat)
... that it was almost frightening.  I'd thought of the spiritus mundi of a place as a general thing, before that.  Oh you know, in the Alps, the way the Aiguille Verte can look of a morning.  But here, it was different.  The land breathes, the sky encloses one, a living thing, and there are shapes in the dark that one cannot account for.
The men are silent again.  At last NOEL speaks, nodding slowly.
NOEL
I had this too, in the Phari plain.  Back in 1913.  I thought I was hallucinating.
GEORGE listens intently.
GEORGE
So did I.  Until one morning, I was up quite early for an early start. 
GEORGE
I was above Camp Three at about 5 AM, and I felt such a siren's call to the wall above the glacier.  John, I felt a sort of COMPULSION.  I felt it like a woman, drawing me on.  I looked up the wall, and there about ten feet above my head was...
(beat)
...I climbed up, and there was the most astonishing crystal ice-cave.
NOEL gasps.
NOEL
Good God! I know that photograph! It's extraordinary.
GEORGE nods.
GEORGE
It was an extraordinary place.  I stepped inside, and put down my ice-axe.  John, I tell you truly, before me there was a little dark woman...
NOEL is startled.
NOEL
A dakini!
GEORGE
(softly)
A dakini.
Both men are again silent.  NOEL stares at GEORGE.
GEORGE
I can see need not describe her to you.
He peers at NOEL keenly.  NOEL looks stunned.
GEORGE
I see that you have seen her too.  I had the strangest, most rivening sense of having been there before.  John, I was rooted to the spot. 
She did not speak but to my mind, and smiled and told me an old name.  And that it was my fate to come back to this place.
(beat)
There was nothing soft about her, nor her invitation, but she haunts me, and I know she is the spirit of this place.
He shakes his head.
GEORGE
I have fought her, but she is like a mistress one cannot let go of.
(beat)
I am of this place, John, in a way that words can scarce describe.  I love it, I hate it.  But it is what I am.
There is a long silence.  NOEL has tears in his eyes, and can barely speak.
NOEL
GEORGE.  My friend.  You are the only man I have ever heard brave enough to speak these things.  I've known them for almost twenty years.  I always felt there was something DIFFERENT about you, George, that went beyond books and your passion for the mountains.  Many of us have that.  But I never dreamed it was what I see in you now.
There is another rich silence, full of acceptance of what has passed between them.  It will remain between them, silently.  Presently, GEORGE relights his pipe.
GEORGE
So, what DID you come in here for?
NOEL laughs.  The tension is relieved.  George finds himself laughing too.
NOEL
To ask you if you wanted to come out and take some photos with me!
GEORGE
Done!
MONTAGE
1) GEORGE and NOEL climb up to the ice-cave with cameras, crampons and ice-axes. 
GEORGE'S POV: THE VIEW FROM THE INSIDE, LOOKING OUT ON THE GLACIER ABOUT BASE CAMP.
2) The expedition treks over to the Rongbuk Monastery for a puja.  Everyone is given a kata, which they accept graciously.  GEORGE, NOEL, SANDY and SOMERVELL leave theirs on, and the Abbot ruffles SANDY's hair as he makes his bow.  The party shows varying responses to the ceremony, from boredom to polite interest to scientific curiosity to devotion. 
NOEL and GEORGE exchange speaking glances.  There is a green thangka painting on the wall, of a snow mountain with the pure white body of a dark-haired man beneath it, lying at angles.
EXT.  BASE CAMP, EVEREST, 1 MAY - EVENING
It's cold, and the wind is blowing.  It's after dinner and everyone is in their tent.  One person climbs out of his tent with an object in his hand.  He walks over to another tent, holding the object and looking it over as he does so.  It is NOEL, and he holds one of his cameras.
INT.  SANDY'S TENT - CONTINUOUS
Sandy hears a voice from outside the tent.
NOEL
WHAT HO! Anyone at home?
SANDY
Noel! Is that you? Do come in.
There is a minor commotion in the bell end of the tent, and NOEL pops his head through the tent flap.
NOEL
(smiling)
What ho!
SANDY
Hullo, Noel! Another for the repair shop?
NOEL looks slightly sheepish.
NOEL
Well, actually, yes.  Can you help? You did such a dashed good job with my penknife yesterday.
SANDY
It was a pleasure.  Just needed cleaning and a spot of oil and the main blade straightened out a little.  It'd opened one too many tins of sardines for its own good.
He eyes NOEL slightly teasingly, but he is friendly and willing to help.
SANDY
What do you have for me tonight?
NOEL
I fear this may be a rather different proposition.  My camera shutter works perfectly nine times out of ten.  The tenth time, it jams.  I've lost several grand photographs because of it.  I've had as much of a play with it as I dare, but I find nothing wrong.
NOEL looks baffled but determined.
NOEL
Irvine, I must be able to count on my equipment.  I've invested £8,000 in the photographic rights and this is dreadfully important.
He now looks rather more pleading.
NOEL
Do you think you can have a look? Are you also good with cameras?
SANDY
If it's made of metal and has moving parts, I can see what I can do.  All machines obey the laws of physics.  If something's not working properly, then there's a reason.  When the reason is found, the cure is also discovered.  It's not complicated.
NOEL
Well, it's dashed difficult to the rest of us mortals.
(beat)
Here.  There's no film in it.
Sandy takes the camera gingerly, as if he were being handed a baby.  Examining it, he clicks the shutter half a dozen times.  On the seventh time, it jams open for a couple seconds, then closes.
SANDY
Ah, I see.
(beat)
Leave this with me.  I'll return it in the morning.
(beat)
You weren't going to take any photographs of the night sky, were you?
NOEL
Good Lord, no.  Far too cold, if I may say so.
SANDY
I agree!
NOEL
Well, thank you.  If you can undertake camera repair as well as everything else you have fixed, I think you're well-blessed by the goddess of engineering.
SANDY
(laughs)
How do you know it's not a god?
NOEL
Because I suspect that good engineers possess an intuition that is similar to that which women have.  They know what to do but cannot explain it in any language which mortal men can understand.
SANDY
(smiles)
Well, when I fix your camera I'll explain what I've done very precisely.
(beat)
Now, pray, Noel, please go to sleep and relax.  Your camera is in good hands here.
NOEL
I know that.  Thank you.
NOEL retreats backwards out of the tent, precisely the way he came.
NOEL
Goodnight!
SANDY
Goodnight!
Sandy delves into a large metal box, where he finds a fine set of watch screwdrivers.  Carefully selecting one, and with infinite care, he undoes a screw in the camera's housing.
Like a surgeon performing a delicate operation, he undoes another three screws.  He carefully places the screws into a small leather pouch, lays out a small sheet of clean linen over part of his groundsheet, and carefully eases the camera lens housing away from the body.
SANDY
Ahh!
(beat)
So simple.
Sandy turns again to his toolbox and this time selects a pair of needle-nose pliers.  Again, with great precision, he twists something slightly that is within the housing.  He now selects a piece of thin wire, and we see him poking the wire into a corner of the lens unit.
SANDY
That does it.
(with satisfaction)
Voila.
Reassembling the camera but ignoring the screws for the moment, he clicks the camera shutter twenty times.  It operates perfectly on each occasion.
SANDY
Good.
He now retrieves the four little screws and deftly re-assembles the camera.
SANDY
There.
He stretches, gently wraps the camera in the piece of linen, and places it carefully in a corner of the tent.  He then stretches out on his camp bed and makes himself comfortable.  He reaches into a bag for a notepad and pen, and begins to write.
SANDY
Dear Mother, It has been another cold day here but I must say that the scenery has been magnificent.  I had a jolly good ride with Mallory and Norton today, and Mallory laughed so much at he and me trying to stop our ponies from galloping away with us that he nearly fell off his own.  I am slightly saddle sore again today but it is better than being a footsore soldier.  I vow that I will get the hang of these animals, but Norton said that it was more the problem them getting the hang of me! That also made Mallory laugh.  It is good to see him so merry.  Sometimes he is deep in thought, and replies to one's questions and comments with the briefest word.  At other times, such as today, he is full of levity and amusement and witty observation, and it is a great pleasure to spend the day in his company.
SANDY pauses for thought, his pen in the corner of his mouth.
SANDY
I must say, I find myself hoping that I may climb with him on the mountain.  He is the best mountaineer in England if not the world, and I shall learn such a lot from him.
(beat)
That is, as long as he is willing to be my guide.
(beat)
It would be wonderful for me but would I fear be rather an unequal partnership.
(beat)
I could only hope to acquit myself as best as I can and not let him down.
(long beat)
Some of the men are sharing tents with one another.  I am on my own in mine.  I do not mind that very much, because it allows me to stay up late at night effecting repairs.  I think when I repaired Nim Tharkay's primus, I did too good a job and Nim was too keen to sing my unwarranted praises.  I should not have mended it so well! 
So now my tent has become a kind of repair shop that is always open and in which no customer is ever turned away
(beat)
or charged a penny for the service.
(beat)
The men seem grateful enough, but sometimes I wish I were regarded more as a human being than an engineer.  It is as if I have it stencilled on my forehead in large letters.  Andrew Irvine, engineer, mender of cameras
(beat)
oxygen sets, primus stoves, penknives, crampons, wristwatches, field glasses, walking sticks and spectacles.
(beat)
I receive visitors every evening, but they all come for a reason.  Not since we left the last Dak bungalow and started camping every night have I received a visitor who just wishes to talk to enquire how I am or what I am thinking.
(beat)
The answer to that question is that I am in good health and cheer, and
SANDY
that it is flattering to be regarded as an invaluable member of such an important expedition.  And I would work all night until dawn broke each day if need be in order to do my small part to ensure that the expedition is successful and that every man's personal equipment and effects are in good order.
(beat)
However, it is hard on the spirit at times to spend so much time alone.
SANDY writes nothing more for quite a long time.  Then he screws up his letter, and throws it into a corner with Noel's camera.  He then turns down his lantern, the light fades, and he closes his eyes to sleep.
EXT.  BASE CAMP, 2 MAY - EARLY MORNING
NOEL sets up his camera.  Before him, the expedition members drift in from the Mess, rather unwilling to have their picture made so early, but knowing it must be done.
GEOFFREY
(to SHEBBEARE beside him)
Once more into the breach my friends...
SHEBBEARE
I bloody hope not.  I'm not falling into a crevasse for anyone's benefit.  The Times will have to wait on that story.
MACDONALD
(to BEETHAM)
How are you, Beeters? You still look a bit seedy.
BEETHAM
Ah! Better, better!
His face tells another story.
MACDONALD claps him on the back.
MACDONALD
Right, you'll be back to your old tricks in no time.
NOEL emerges from under his cloth.
NOEL
Where's Mallory?
Laughter from them all.
GEOFFREY
Just coming! Can't a man fortify himself?
He arrives from NOEL's right, munching a sausage and wearing his battered porridge-coloured hat.
GEORGE
Where do you want me?
NOEL
Over in the back.  Next to Norton.
NORTON
I think we can make room for him.
NORTON smiles at SANDY.  GEORGE pulls his hat over his eyes.
NOEL
(good humouredly)
Will you take off that bloody hat, Mallory? You look like the village idiot.
Laughter from all.  BEETHAM mocks up a North Country accent.
BEETHAM
Dornee know nowt about picturalising, mon?
GEOFFREY
I told you he'd be back to himself in no time.
GEORGE
I hate having my picture taken.
Choruses of merry doubt greet this.
SOMERVELL
(affectionately)
Says the film star!
GEORGE
Bernard Shaw said we looked like picnickers in Connemara surprised by a snowstorm.
He winks at SANDY.  More laughter at this.  Everyone knows he adores Shaw.
NOEL
Please, gentlemen, now let's be serious and get this done, and George, take off that hat!
GEORGE takes off his hat.
GEORGE
Aye, Captain.
Laughter.  His hair is standing on end.
NORTON
Maybe he should leave it on.
NOEL
(with mock impatience)
Please!
Everyone sobers up very stiff and straight and NOEL takes the picture.
NOEL
I say, not that sober! You look like a lot of undertakers.
Laughter.
NOEL
Mallory, give us a summit pic for all the girls back home.
ODELL
For all those bloody postcards!
NOEL
(to GEORGE)
Put your foot up.  The conquering hero and all that.
GEORGE
On what?
GEORGE puts his foot on SHEBBEARE's head.  Laughter.
NOEL
No, too high.
GEORGE puts his foot on SHEBBEARE's shoulder.
BEETHAM
We've finally found something too high for George!
Amusement all round, except for GEORGE, who looks intensely into the camera.
NOEL snaps the picture.
NOEL
Thank you gentlemen, you may now get on with whatever social engagements await you.
EXT.  CAMP I TO CAMP II - LATER
NORTON, SHEBBEARE, SOMERVELL, GEOFFREY, and three Gurkha NCOs climb up to the glacial moraine between CAMP I and CAMP II.  With them are 150 porters, carrying loads, going slowly.  The desolation of Base Camp has given way to the high rising walls of the glacier and a river of ice.  Some of the porters are having a very bad time.
EXT.  BASE CAMP - CONTINUOUS
The remaining porters at Base Camp, seeing the loads their fellows have shouldered, and the long way to go, decide amongst themselves to go and see the abbot at Rongbuk.  They are about a mile out of Camp when GEORGE and ODELL catch them up.  GEORGE goes up to the man at the head of the line, a cousin of the interpreter KARMA PAUL.  The conversation is in Hindi.
GEORGE
What's the matter here, Chembal?
CHEMBAL
We are very worried, sir.
GEORGE
What are you worried about, Chembal?
CHEMBAL
Sir, my men are very new, they have never climbed, and last night they were hearing stories from those who have gone on about how difficult the work is above Camp I.  Then this morning, we see the great loads they are carrying, with their own blankets and other belongings.
ODELL comes up.
GEORGE puts a hand on Chembal's shoulder.
GEORGE
Chembal, thank you for telling me the truth about this.  I can understand that your men are concerned.
He looks out over the knot of men, nodding.
GEORGE
I understand that you all are worried.
GEORGE
(to CHEMBAL)
But what you must know is that today is a day like no other.  The loads will never again be so large as the ones the others carried this morning.  The climb will never be so far at once.  I promise you.  Do you understand?
He looks into CHEMBAL's eyes earnestly.
GEORGE
I promise you.
There is a long moment of silence.
CHEMBAL
Thank you, sir.  I understand.  And I believe you.
He pauses, and looks at GEORGE keenly.
CHEMBAL
I believe you because of how you were with the Lama at the monastery.  You showed him great respect and I saw that it was real.  And that is why I believe what you say.
There is another long moment of silence.
GEORGE
Thank you, Chembal.  Thank you.  You will come back to camp now, you and your men?
CHEMBAL
(with dignity)
Yes, sir.
GEORGE
Good man.
(beat)
But tell me, why were you going off to the monastery just now?
CHEMBAL stops then laughs.
CHEMBAL
We wanted to consult the abbot, sir, on what was right to do, whether we should leave or complain or say nothing!
GEORGE smiles.
GEORGE
That's a very long way to go for an opinion! Next time, ask one of us, myself or Norton or Captain Bruce.  We'll tell you the truth.
CHEMBAL
Thank you, sir.
The group all cluster round and as CHEMBAL talks with them, GEORGE and ODELL walk back to camp.
ODELL
Well, that was remarkable diplomacy!
GEORGE smiles.
GEORGE
Coming from me?
He shoves his hands in his pockets and looks out across the plains of Tibet.
GEORGE
I can hardly fault them, when I thought it a bloody load as well, and wonder how we are going to get up in this uncertain weather; when I wondered if I should come out at all.
He turns to ODELL with grinning good cheer.
GEORGE
Still, we're here! And by God, we shall get up!
ODELL
(smiles a little)
But you left out the important bit for them: that you respected their lama.  He spoke with something akin to reverence.
GEORGE
(grins)
Mere awful superstition!  Because he sees me in company with Norton late into the night.  I am friend to the big sahib so I must be important.  It's purely a matter of self-interest.
ODELL
You can't fool me, George.
GEORGE
As you will, old man.
He turns round to look at the company of porters, who have started their march back to camp.
GEORGE
Ah, they're coming on!

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